Manage Rainwater in Your Garden with Simple Designs
Sep 21,2018 - Sports
A healthy wildlife pond is not a tidy one. A certain amount of leaf litter, silt and algae is the whole point — it feeds the insects, which in turn feed the frogs, newts and birds that visit. So before you reach for a net, ask yourself what is actually troubling you. Murky water in spring is often just a flush of algae that clears as plants grow. A pond that looks neglected in November may be brimming with life just below the surface.
The case for a clean-up is strongest when silt has built up to more than about 10cm deep, when the water has turned black and foul-smelling, or when invasive blanketweed has smothered everything else. If your pond is simply a bit scruffy around the edges, put the net down and enjoy it.
This is the single most important decision you will make, and it is easy to get wrong. Frogs, toads and newts arrive to breed from late February, and their tadpoles and larvae are in the water until midsummer or later. Dragonfly nymphs, water beetles and countless other creatures are active throughout the warmer months. Disturbing a pond between February and September can kill far more wildlife than the cleaning saves.
The kindest windows are:
Never do a full clean in spring. If a job truly cannot wait, disturb as little as possible and work only at the margins.
Work from one side of the pond rather than wading in. Use a soft rake or net to lift floating leaves, twigs and excess blanketweed, and pile them on the pond edge for a day or two. This gives any creatures caught up in the tangle — newt larvae, water boatmen, snails — a chance to crawl back to the water. After 48 hours the pile can go on the compost heap.
If silt really must come out, remove no more than a third of it in any one year, and lift it in small batches rather than dredging the whole bottom. Spread each batch on a tarpaulin at the water's edge and leave it overnight. You will be surprised how much finds its way back.
Every creature you accidentally catch should go straight into a container of pond water, never tap water. Chlorine and chloramine are lethal to amphibians and invertebrates, so keep a lidded bucket or two of the pond's own water nearby and return everything as you go, rather than leaving animals stranded in a net for hours.
Use the same principle when topping up. Rainwater from a butt is ideal. If you must use tap water, let it stand for 24 hours first to let chlorine dissipate — though note this does not remove chloramine, so rainwater remains the safer choice.
Algae is a symptom, not the disease. It thrives on sunlight and excess nutrients, so the lasting fix is more shade and more plants. Aim for around half the pond surface covered by floating leaves such as water lily or frogbit, and plant plenty of oxygenators like hornwort and water milfoil, plus marginals such as marsh marigold and ragged robin.
While you are working, think about access. A gentle ramp or a shallow pebble beach at one end lets hedgehogs, fledglings and exhausted bees climb out instead of drowning. Keep long grass and log piles nearby as cover, and leave a wilder margin uncut — frogs shelter there, and so do the insects your pond depends on.
Finally, be patient. A pond that has been gently cleaned will look bare for a season or two. The water may green up briefly, then settle. Within a year the plants will have knitted back together, the invertebrates will have returned, and you will hear the frogs again on a mild evening in February. That is the sound of a job well done.
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